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One root cause could be that there is too much or too
little clearance of the Insert O.D. to the Holder I.D. against the tolerance they were manufactured to. If that
is not the case, it could be possible that there is too much
press fit on the assembly.
When you 'free up'
the wheel, is there any plastic between the insert and the holder? Flash in this area
would indicate TOO much clearance.
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What resin are you molding? In some cases, different types of Resins have been known to
cause these types of issues.
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What is the Mold Temperature? Some molds run really
hot at 150 deg. F, while some run at 45 deg. F. Both
extremes can affect how much clearance there is while
molding.
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How many cavities does the
problematic mold have? Is there one Date Wheel/Stamp per cavity? If there
is a 16-cavity mold and three of them are not turning,
one can now begin to look for differentiation between those that
work and those that do not and know how many are failing in total.
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Are all the inserts in the mold sticking or is it
certain cavities? Having only a couple out of, say, 8 would
lead us to believe that it may be a possible
manufacturing problem.
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Are the inserts close to the gate and are they on the
A or B side? If they are close to the gate, heat is
higher and may be affecting the movement.
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Make sure to check the sticking wheel in the press
before pulling it out to inspect the problem. This is an
odd issue, so it would be a great advantage to attempt to
address the issue in the press rather than after it's been
pulled.
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When a Date Wheel/Stamp is not turning, and one is turning them back and forth to loosen them up
with no resolve, then it's possible it is the tool.
However, this is difficult to diagnose without actually viewing the
application.